I
need to get this straight first up I am not writing about last week or even
last year. These events occurred over 40 years ago. It is purely from my again
memory banks and purely indulgent. I may
not surf anymore but I can try and recreate the experience in a serious of word
paintings. The first is one of the best morning sessions I was fortunate enough
experienced in the cold crisp blue waters of the Indian Ocean.
My
friend and I were down at the beach before dawn. We paddle out in semi
darkness. We could hear the waves breaking and as we approached the break the
sun began to rise at our backs.
The
slightest offshore cooled our already freezing backs. I rarely got a chance to
ride Injidup without being smashed inside trying to compete for the section
with far better surfers but today there was only 2 of us. I paddled for a
shoulder I normally would have been hassled put of felt the board move and was
on my feet. Trimming for the drop I felt the board accelerate beneath me and
looked over my shoulder at the wall rising up. Man this was fun. Slowing down a
little I could see the lip billow out over me standing full length in a clear
blue green tube. Dropping the nose and speeding up I pulled out of the barrel and
snapped off the lip. Down again then pulled out of the dying wave face. Magic
